Canasta Eats: Plates
Dining at the UK’s first and only Michelin-starred plant-based restaurant
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A couple of weeks ago I finally made it to Plates (!). Earlier this year it made history by becoming the first ever plant-based restaurant to receive a Michelin star. The news sent the entire vegan community into a frenzy in what was seen as a huge milestone for the plant-based food movement. Led by chef and co-owner Kirk Haworth, Plates is now part of a small but growing group of restaurants from around the world demonstrating just how ambitious and innovative plants can really be.
As I write this newsletter it’s not lost upon me that just a few days ago Eleven Madison Park (New York’s three Michelin-starred restaurant) made the shock announcement that they will be putting meat back on the menu. For the past four years they had been the leading voice in plant-based fine dining, being the first and only restaurant in history to hold three Michelin stars. Citing financial difficulties, and what they perceived as lack of inclusivity for non-vegan diners, they confirmed animal products would return as of this autumn. For many of us in the community, news like this is inevitably disheartening. It feels like a big loss, and yet it’s during these times that it’s most important to recall all the positive strides happening elsewhere. It also serves as a reminder of just how crucial it is to support the plant-based businesses continuing to fight against the grain.
Despite the losses I still feel tremendously optimistic about the future of vegan food, and a big part of that are places like Plates. When you eat here you aren’t just getting a delicious meal (which you definitely are!), you’re also being shown a world of completely new possibilities. There are flavours, textures, techniques and combinations you will have never had anywhere before. Every single dish was unexplored terrain for my tastebuds and there is no way you can eat here and not leave feeling like Kirk and his team unlocked an entire new part of your brain. Whether you are vegan or not (especially if you’re not), go to Plates, if only out of curiosity, and the food will speak for itself.
The Setting
Located on the stretch of Old Street between the station and Shoreditch High Street you’ll find Plates neatly standing next to the Chapel Place arch. As you walk through the snug entryway you immediately see the busy open kitchen and the intimate dining room ahead. Tables are packed tightly but the wrap-around windows and candlelight give the space a cosy feel without feeling claustrophobic. The colour palette is earthy and warm and the details are natural but refined. They also have a small outdoor terrace which can be reserved over the phone.
The Drinks
Drinks can be ordered á la carte or you can opt for their wine pairing (£70), non-alcoholic pairing (£55) or 50/50 pairing (wine and non-alc, £60). Note that there is a £20 minimum spend per person on drinks which will be taken from your booking deposit (£50pp).
They have a wide variety of European wines including orange, yellow, rosé and sparkling varieties, broken down into the following groupings: Deciduous Forest, Alpine & Hillside Shrub and Mediterranean Scrubland. Cocktails are divided into signature drinks and reimagined classics, plus some very good non-alcoholic cocktails and spirit options too.
The Menu
The tasting menu changes with the seasons and is the same for both lunch and dinner, consisting of eight courses, plus an extra amuse-bouche to start. It’s priced at £109 per person with a £50 deposit required at the time of booking. There are six savoury dishes and two dessert courses all served by either the waiters or the chefs, including Kirk himself. The whole dinner took us about two and a half hours and was paced really well with a nice rhythm that never felt rushed or too drawn out between courses.
The Verdict
I can honestly say I loved every single course. There was nothing shy about any of the dishes – every dish was punchy and bold and took me on a complete adventure from start to finish. Some mouthfuls were deep and rich while others were bright and sharp. None of the components were easily discernible in appearance or taste, with each dish bringing together a whole new series of unfamiliar elements and techniques.
If I had to pick favourites I would have to include the first course of Isle of Wight tomatoes, house ricotta, strawberry & frozen tarragon and barbecued tomato broth. The broth in particular was absolutely sensational – so deeply layered and luxurious. Another favourite would have to be the Jersey Royal potatoes, sweet & sour apricot and black truffle. Potatoes aren’t even my carb of choice but this dish was incredible. It was earthy and heady but also delicate and sweet - every bite was wonderful. And to round off my top three I would have to say the caramelised Lions Mane, pickled cherry, beetroot, gem lettuce and hibiscus. As someone who used to really enjoy the taste of meat before, this plate of food was beyond impressive. The Lions Mane was so rich and flavourful and the meatiness of the texture was nothing short of mind-blowing.
As I said before, it’s places like Plates that keep me hopeful for the future of vegan food. It goes to show what can be achieved when skill, experience and ambition are applied to plant cookery. There is a whole frontier waiting to be uncovered and I cannot wait to see more food like this appear on more menus across the UK and the world.
Address: 320 Old Street, London EC1V 9DR
Bookings: plates-london.com
Booking Tips:
Tables are very limited so securing a booking requires a fair bit of advance planning and patience. Their current booking cycle is open for reservations up until the end of November although they only really have single seat bookings left now. Follow them on Instagram as they sometimes announce last minute cancellations on there. They usually release their new booking window for the next cycle near the end of the current cycle i.e the next release will probably be mid to late November. I suggest you follow them on Instagram and subscribe to their newsletter to be the first to hear about any updates. Bookings run out very quickly so make sure you’re ready at the exact release time and date. Note: Plates is currently closed for their summer break and will reopen in September.