When in Bali
Where to find quiet beauty between the crowds
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The Indonesian Archipelago is made up of over 17,000 islands and yet we are sure you’ve heard of one above all others: Bali. Some worship it while others believe it has been ‘ruined’ by tourism - we’re somewhere in between the two. It is true that the island is extremely crowded and congested, with infrastructure that is physically incapable of keeping up, however there is still so much beauty to be found here. Last June we visited for a week and came back with beautiful memories of breath-taking temples, warm hospitality and soul-enriching nature. Our favourite moments were those where we found stillness and quiet amidst the bustling surroundings, places where we were able to tap into the peaceful spirituality Bali originally became famous for.
As with our food recommendations for Bali (find them here), we don’t aim to present a comprehensive guide to the island but instead we want to offer a few key suggestions that we think are worth carving out time for in your itinerary. We’ve also included reviews of the two resorts we stayed at during our time, both of which were the perfect sanctuaries after busy days. Read on to discover more and follow us on Instagram @canastamagazine where you’ll find additional Bali-inspired posts including a recipe coming later this week - stay tuned.
The Resorts
Tanah Gajah, a Resort by Hadiprana
Located near the Goa Gajah temple on the outskirts of Ubud, Tanah Gajah is one of the most exquisite properties we have ever visited. Yes, it’s a 5-star luxury resort but for all the pampering (there’s plenty) there’s also a cultural richness to it that makes it so incredibly special. As the former estate of Indonesian architect and art collector Hendra Hadiprana, the property is meticulously designed and features original Balinese artworks from his collection throughout the entire resort. The service is exceptional, the architecture is deeply rooted in Balinese culture and craft and all you feel as you walk around the grounds is absolute tranquility. Also, their on-site shop is a real hidden gem that should not be missed whether you’re staying there or not (more on this below).
Tengkulak Kaja, Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Kemenuh, Ubud, Gianyar Regency, Bali 80571, Indonesia
https://www.tanahgajahubud.com/en
Umana Bali, LXR Hotels & Resorts by Hilton
A relatively new resort (opened at the end of 2023) on the stretch of coastal cliff above Melasti Beach, Umana is a real treat. Replete with the high-end comforts you’d expect from a high-end resort, plus unobstructed ocean views and a clan of resident primates that are often found taking a dip in your villa’s pool. Come here and leave feeling completely restored (especially if you add a trip, or three, to their brilliant spa).
Jl. Melasti, Ungasan, Kec. Kuta Sel., Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80364, Indonesia
https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/dpsolol-umana-bali-resort/
Quiet(er) Things to do
Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu
We visited some of the more well-known temples like Uluwatu Temple, Tanah Lot and Pura Tirta Empul but it was Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu that dazzled us the most. There were only a handful of other visitors when we were there despite it being only a short 15 minute drive from the heaving Pura Tirta Empul. The temple complex includes structures carved out of rock face, elaborate fountains, ponds full of koi, rice terraces and more, all of which can be enjoyed in peace without any crowds. Be warned that to get to the temple you will need to descend several hundred steep stairs but we think the reward of getting there is definitely worth it.
Sebatu, Tegallalang, Gianyar Regency, Bali 80511, Indonesia
Campuhan Ridge Walk, Ubud
Best enjoyed early when the crowds are light and the sun is more mellow. This walk takes you on a raised path through Ubud’s surrounding fields - stop often and admire the many bucolic vistas. As the walk progresses you’ll see less and less people and feel miles away from Ubud’s town center. There are plenty of small cafés and eateries along the way where you can sit down and soak in the country air.
Go Surfer-watching at Single Fin, Uluwatu
From the cliff top vantage point, take a seat, grab a drink and watch the surfers show-off their skills as the sun goes down. Best enjoyed as a weekday pre-dinner drinks spot.
Pantai Suluban, Jl. Labuan Sait, Pecatu, Uluwatu, Kuta Selatan, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361
https://www.singlefinbali.com/
Sundays Beach Club
If you’re looking for a quieter beach club experience head to Sundays. Unlike some of the more party-heavy options in Bali, Sundays is laid-back, well-provisioned and you actually get a good amount of personal space right on one of Bali’s best stretches of sand. Bonus points are in order for the funicular ride that transports you down to the beach and for the cosy bonfires they set up daily at sunset. There are plenty of plant-based options on their menu too.
Jalan Pantai Selatan Gau, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan 80362 Bali, Indonesia
https://www.sundaysbeachclub.com/
Where to Find the Perfect Souvenirs
Tanah Gajah Shop
As mentioned, we stayed at Tanah Gajah while in Ubud and it is here that we discovered a treasure trove tucked away on their grounds. The resort’s shop stocks a beautiful selection of local crafts including block print cards, batik textiles, candles and much more. If you’re looking for souvenirs to take home, avoid the Ubud Market crowds and come here instead.
Some Tips
We recommend dividing your time between the different areas you want to explore on the island and split your accommodation stays accordingly, this will save you a lot of time commuting to the different attractions.
If you do split your stay we recommend prioritising more days in Ubud and if you’re only planning to stay in one town this is where we would pick. It’s the heartland of Bali and although busy it has much more cultural richness and natural beauty than areas like Seminyak and Canggu.
Expect large crowds at popular attractions like the Uluwatu Temple, Pura Tirta Empul, Tegalalang Rice Terraces etc. These are worth seeing but be mentally prepared for the disparity between the idealised photos you may have seen and the in-person experience.
Try to visit popular sights early to avoid the worst of the crowds and we highly recommend making time for some of the lesser-known temples.
Allow plenty of time when travelling by car as the roads are notoriously congested and even short distances can take a long time.
If you’re staying on the outskirts of Ubud and need to get a car into town request drop-off on one of the outer roads then do the short walk into the center. Trying to get a drop-off right outside your central Ubud destination will add a lot more time to your journey.
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